Ukrainian Fashion Week announces a new international partnership within the “Support Ukrainian Fashion” Initiative – for the first time Ukrainian fashion brands introduce collections at ModaLisboa

The show of NADYA DZYAK, DARJA DONEZZ, and OMELIA as part of the official schedule of ModaLisboa, took place on March 10.

“ModaLisboa is, above all, a communication platform. Of Fashion Design, in the first place, but also of the values that have always guided its intervention: creativity, positive action, a concrete and unequivocal response to the context in which we’re living. In a Lisboa Fashion Week  under the motto FOR GOOD, this protocol with Ukrainian Fashion Week is extremely important for us to support its designers, offering a stage where their work can be shown in freedom.” Eduarda Abbondanza, President of ModaLisboa Association.

The UFW team expresses sincere gratitude to colleagues from ModaLisboa for supporting Ukrainian designers in the FW24-25 season and joining the “Support Ukrainian Fashion” Initiative. The event is supported by Anastasiia Bilous, fashion editor of ELLE UA.

NADYA DZYAK

Ukrainian fashion brand NADYA DZYAK unveils its latest collection, FW24-25, drawing inspiration from the ancient symbols of Trypillian culture – the circle and the spiral, frequently adorning Ukrainian pysanky, pottery, and ancient jewellery. Our ancestors expressed their worldview through a rich tapestry of visual elements, shaping the ethnic code that preserves the essence of our identity. The circle and the spiral symbolise the Sun, representing rebirth and the eternal cycle of life. In times of adversity, we find solace in reconnecting with our origins.

“In the most challenging times, we ponder the sacred meanings and our roots,” shares the brand’s designer. “For years, our collections have explored the theme of the circle. When I close my eyes, I envision circles and spirals. As I create patterns of frills, my hand instinctively forms these shapes, as if guided from above. Delving into this theme, I discovered that the circle and spiral are the oldest symbols in our culture, present in Trypillian ceramics and decorating pysanky, embroidered garments, and household items. This symbology is ingrained in our cultural DNA. I incorporated these motifs into the frill patterns and guipure lacework of our garments.”

Transparent textures are an integral part of the brand’s DNA. In this collection, varying sizes of mesh, guipure, and black tulle create an illusory optical effect, accentuated by geometric frills reminiscent of circles and spirals.

The primary colours of the FW24/25 collection are black and red, reflecting the Ukrainian embroidery techniques. Black represents our fertile land, currently suffering, while shades of red symbolise our blood, passion, and love for life. As always, the brand continues to work with pleated fabric, produced in Kharkiv, despite the city’s regular shelling by Russian forces.

OMELIA

Monochrome lace floral appliqués and recycled vintage denim come together as the hero piece from OMELIA FW24-25 collection. This release is called Fervent Heart, symbolizing passion and emotion connecting the wearer with the garment.

OMELIA’s concept, which is based on upcycling, allows the designer to experiment with deconstruction. This is how such unique pieces as gloves made of former pre-loved shirts, are produced. For this drop, the brand’s designer Kostiantyn Omelia sourced second-hand denim shirts, and adorned them with handcrafted 3D floral embellishments, residue italian lace and tassels.

‘Almost every piece in our collection is crafted from vintage shirts or fabric remnants discovered in thrift stores and stock shops. While they are often overlooked, they mark the beginning of something beautiful and unique to me,” — explains Kostiantyn.

This process is truly versatile: for instance, the brand’s signature exaggerated floral brooches are created with the use of a special solution. It provides them with paper-like texture and rigidity, and then the fabric is shaped into flowers using templates and a hot tool. Crystals are also one of the brand’s main aesthetic tools, used a lot for creating a festive vibe to the collection.

DARJA DONEZZ

DARJA DONEZZ designer never tyres of being inspired by the majesty of the ocean, the noise of the water, the beauty of the coast, and the sea inhabitants who seem to hide their lives in their own world and keep many secrets. Like an artist, she transfers all her dreams and fantasies into her creations. A mysterious jellyfish has become the muse for the new collection this season. A large number of sea jellies Darja Donezz observes during the sea tides on the Portuguese coast, where she currently lives due to the Russian war in Ukraine.

In addition to the fact that the medusa is a symbol of harmony and perfection, it also carries the meaning of immortality. Being on the shore without water, many jellyfishes die, but those who wait for the new wave are ready to live with renewed vigor. Darja draws parallels with people, because not everyone can move forward through the thorns.

The elegant jellyfish is the central symbol of the new collection, which will appear embroidered on the clothes. In addition, the collection contains iconic brand codes that have already become beloved by connoisseurs of DARJA DONEZZ. It is all about fishes, which symbolize the beginning of the world, shells, which symbolize salvation, and jellyfish, which symbolize infinity. 

Photo: ModaLisboa