Vilnius Fashion Week, held in early September, was about more than fashion – it marked the launch of the international “The Bridge” initiative. Its goal is to connect people in need of professional opportunities with those who can provide them.

During the initiative’s inaugural meeting, it was decided to support five Ukrainian designers. Representatives of the international fashion, cultural and business communities set out to help them build professional bridges to Europe and the wider world by providing opportunities for mentorship, internships and residencies, helping them establish professional connections and introducing their work to new markets. At the end of the meeting, participants signed the official document “The Bridge: Vilnius – From Dialogue to Action”.

The initiative remains open to other individuals, organisations and businesses willing to contribute financially or share their expertise. One way to support the initiative already available is through the online “The Bridge” auction, with proceeds going towards professional opportunities, mentorship, residencies and international exposure for the participating designers.

“From the very beginning, we did not want to create yet another event where people talk at length and then return to their lives the next morning. The essence of “The Bridge” is very simple: on one side there is a person who needs an opportunity; on the other, there are people, institutions and businesses that can provide it. Our job is to bring them together,” says Tadas Bruzgulis, founder of “The Bridge” and organiser of Vilnius Fashion Week.

“The Bridge” will continue its work throughout the year. At next year’s meeting, the results of the first year will be assessed, and a new theme and new individuals will be selected for the international community to support in opening new doors.

A Collection Born in a Shelter

This time, “The Bridge” is focusing on emerging Ukrainian designers Anna Kuzmenko, Dania Stinova, Nadiia Dobrovolska, Khrystiana Hrechanovska and Sofiia Popil. The women say that creating under wartime conditions is not easy, but it is deeply meaningful.

Anna Kuzmenko, founder of the “LeCri” brand, says she created her collection in a bomb shelter “Working while constantly hearing air raid sirens and experiencing ballistic missile attacks can sometimes feel absurd and contrary to any logic. Yet, apparently, people are capable of adapting to almost any conditions. This summer was particularly difficult. While working on the collection, I had to work in a shelter several times because the attacks were so intense that I was afraid to remain in my usual workspace. I would simply take my sewing machine, mannequin and the garment I was working on at the time and go to the shelter,” the designer recalls.

Being a designer in Ukraine means constantly risking the loss not only of workspaces, but also fabric supplies and other materials essential to the creative process, says designer Dania Stinova.

“However, I have learned to adapt and change my working methods. I create and test my designs in 3D, so there is no longer a need to produce numerous physical prototypes before beginning the main production process. This allows me to have greater control over the process and work much more flexibly,” she reveals.

The work of designer Nadiia Dobrovolska reflects some of the most painful losses – those of loved ones. “My first ‘Look into the Future’ collection was created for the Khanenko Museum. While preparing it, I researched photographs from the front line in Donetsk, looking for moments from my brother’s military service. He was killed in 2023.

“My latest collection, ‘Evfrosyniia’, was born out of archival research. I discovered the story of my great-grandmother’s sister, who came from a Cossack family. She disappeared at the age of just three in 1918, amid immense historical upheaval. Today, as I create, I see how Evfrosyniia’s story reflects our current reality. Because of Russia’s aggression, Ukrainian children are once again being forcibly displaced, deported and separated from their homes and cultural roots. My work has become a visual protest against the erasure of memory and forced disappearances,” says the “The Bridge” participant.

Why Does Culture Matter During Wartime?

According to Yelyzaveta Ushcheka, head of Ukraine’s leading fashion platform, Ukrainian Fashion Week, Ukrainians today understand more clearly than ever that culture plays an important role as a tool of diplomacy – with fashion becoming a form of soft power.

“At the same time, it fulfils another essential mission: helping preserve our culture and protect our identity. Ukrainian designers have become cultural ambassadors both at home and internationally. Through the universal language of fashion, they communicate the values, spirit and strength of the Ukrainian people far beyond the country’s borders. That is why it is particularly important to support the new generation of Ukrainian designers today. Young creatives are the future of Ukrainian fashion,” she says.

Y. Ushcheka notes that these five designers were selected for a reason. According to her, they are among the most promising creatives of the new generation of Ukraine’s fashion industry. The designers have already attracted the attention of industry professionals and demonstrated their potential, while their strong focus on quality – from skilled craftsmanship and material selection to responsible fashion – is particularly noteworthy.

One Year – What Comes Next?

What do the young designers hope to achieve over the next year? Sofiia Popil, whose work draws on the culture of the Hutsuls, an ethnic group in Ukraine, would like to gain a better understanding of how a fashion brand operates.

“Equally important is the opportunity to present my work to an international audience. I want to share my vision with people outside my usual circle and see how my work is interpreted and received by different audiences,” says S. Popil.

Khrystiana Hrechanovska, founder of the “MARY&CO” brand, hopes to find a professional mentor. “I have experience working independently, but I would like to see how other designers and creative studios organise their creative processes and how ideas develop from the first concept into the final garment. A mentor with experience in the international fashion industry could also help me better understand my strengths and provide an outside perspective on my work and future professional direction,” she says.

The “The Bridge” initiative is implemented by “ELLE Lithuania” and “ELLE Baltic” in collaboration with the Vilnius City Municipality. Representatives of the embassies and diplomatic missions of France, Italy, Ukraine, Latvia and Estonia, as well as “ELLE Ukraine”, “ELLE Poland” and other members of the international fashion community, have joined the initiative and signed the “The Bridge: Vilnius – From Dialogue to Action” commitment.