Ukrainian Fashion Week

SS27: ii Show

SS27: ii Show

At the heart of It Will Never Happen Again is the idea of uniqueness: the understanding that certain moments, once lived, can never be recreated. The collection translates this idea into a process-led approach to fashion, in which material, chance and the hand of the maker all influence the final form.

Rather than determining every detail in advance, Mariia creates conditions in which the physical qualities of the materials become part of the design process. This philosophy is most visibly expressed through ii’s signature wool embellishment technique. Abstract wool patterns are applied entirely by hand, creating rich, irregular surfaces that are never reproduced. Even when garments share the same silhouette and textile, no two surfaces are identical: each bears the trace of the particular moment in which it was made.

“The way we see and live becomes a compass, guiding us further and deeper into what we experience. Through art, through textiles, through emotions carried by a thread, we create the memory of now.

”Mariia Pavlyk“It Will Never Happen Again” is constructed around a dialogue between opposing material qualities: light and heavy, transparent and dense, soft and structural. Silk, wool, cotton and denim garments are designed from sustainable deadstock fabrics sourced in Italy, while experiments with raw cashmere fibre, camel down and locally sourced Carpathian wool expand the collection’s material vocabulary. Architectural, translucent, cloud-like and draped silhouettes emerge through extensive textile experimentation, sculptural pattern cutting and weaving.

Mariia’s narrative-driven approach to pattern cutting, first explored in the SS25 collection “Spero!”, continues through a reduced-waste methodology in which pattern pieces and off-cuts are incorporated into the garments’ sculptural construction.Traditional Ukrainian weaving techniques are reinterpreted through the introduction of fine natural fibres and developed in collaboration with independent weavers in the Carpathians, bringing traditional craft into dialogue with contemporary textile experimentation.

The collection takes its title from a neon artwork, It Will Never Happen Again, the starting point for ii’s investigation into how knowledge and experience shape what we understand. Referencing the French expression La Der de Der, the work explores how meaning can change with what we know and what we have lived through. In this first chapter, Mariia interprets the phrase as a reflection on the present and the value of moments that can never be repeated.

This consciousness of the present runs through the collection. Mariia draws on the experience of seeing Ukraine’s cultural community continue to create, gather and celebrate life despite extraordinary circumstances.

“It Will Never Happen Again” is not a nostalgic reflection on the past, but an affirmation of the present: a reminder not to wait for the perfect moment, but to recognise and inhabit the one that exists.

This understanding of presence extends to the way the collection is experienced. For ii, craft is not only something to be seen, but something to be understood through material, texture and the act of making. Following the show, guests will be invited to encounter the collection more intimately during a re-see reception from 15:30 to 17:30, with an opportunity to observe and touch the textiles, surfaces and construction details that can be difficult to perceive during a runway presentation.

ii proposes an alternative to the repetition and uniformity traditionally associated with commercial fashion. Selected pieces are produced as one-of-one garments or made to order, allowing the textile process and the individual characteristics of each material to remain central to the final design.