While working on the FW26–27 season, the creative director of the brand TONiA, Antonina Belinska, turned to the era of Mannerism — a period defined by complex forms and refined aristocratic elegance.

Belinska’s mood board included the sophisticated Family Portrait by Bernardino Licinio, engravings depicting women of different social classes in Venice from Habitus variarum orbis gentium by Abraham de Bruyn, as well as genre scenes by the Dutch painter Hendrick Avercamp, particularly Scene on the Ice, where clothing is depicted in motion.

The key design principle of the Manierismo collection is drapery and layering. Belinska transforms the voluminous skirts of Venetian women into long peplums that create a complex architectural silhouette. Delicate lingerie lace is turned “inside out,” playfully appearing from beneath corsets and jackets as a decorative detail. Slashes in the voluminous puffed sleeves also reference the fashion of the late Renaissance.

“Mannerism is the period between the Renaissance and the Baroque, when forms became more intricate, images increasingly opulent, and new materials and colours appeared. Clothing was one of the most important markers of social status, so people demonstrated their taste and financial standing through elaborate embroidery, voluminous skirts and sleeves, as well as silk, velvet, and lace,” says Antonina Belinska.

Another distinctive element of aristocratic dress in the Mannerist era was the high white ruff collar, made of pleated batiste or lace, which framed the portrait area. In the TONiA collection, this element is reinterpreted in softer shapes and vibrant colours.

The designer also paid close attention to accessories and jewellery depicted in ceremonial portraits of European monarchs. The runway looks are complemented by gloves, bows, and striking pendants, brooches, bracelets, and necklaces created in collaboration with the jewellery house Золота Країна.

The colour palette ranges from restrained black, brown, and grey to refined green, sky blue, and soft pink. As a vivid accent, Belinska introduces carrot-coloured ribbons — a detail inspired by Avercamp’s painting.

Despite numerous historical references, the Manierismo collection embodies the recognizable aesthetic of TONiA: refined yet contemporary, artistic and sensual. The looks are suitable both for significant cultural occasions and for everyday life.

Photo: Volodymyr Bosak